Audacity of a Tiger: My spectacular 4 days at Bandhavgar

Life goes on!! The name Charger, B2, Sita, Mohini, Jhurjhura hit the world fame, and now their descendants showing the sign of inheriting the charm from their parents to keep the hope alive.

1st week of June, I have had the fortune to witness some of the rare sight of the Big-Cats in its natural habitat, and this eventually turned out to be the best moments of my life in the wild to witness such actions. Photographing a mating pair and witnessing them courting for two consecutive days was my seer luck and beyoned imaginations. If thats not all, hide & seek with sub adults cubs perched inside bamboo shurbs, road block by a male cub and then following day a face to face eye contact with a mom of two cubs from 3-4 meters away interfacing us left my heart incessantly pounding. But still manage to get a shaky image as my hand throbbed with that questionable eye contact as to why I am there. Following this encounter unfolded another thrill, when mom lost interest on us, and minutes later pulled out the remains of a sambar deer in the firm clasp of her teeth and crosses the road with the kill to feed her cubs waiting other side of the road. Yes – these are the next generation tigers at Bandhavgarh, and no wonder why this place host so many as all of them displayed inheriting the grace from their renowned predecessors.


From here I’ll make it more of a photologue to blend the report with visuals. I’ll deliberately not explain much on travel and accommodation etc as this is a place anyone can have plethora of info on net. Bandhavgarh has facilities to suit everyone’s budget and need. I’ll primarily focus on what to expect from this place through the pictures and intend to give a visual treat to Big-cat and wildlife chasers :-)

Mukunda male cub (18 months), taking rest on the shade

Morning time seems best to rest in a cool dusty track

Dont disturb me! He was getting annyoed by the shutterbugs and the camera pointed towards him

Mukundam female (mom of the two cubs, one in earlier slide) coming out in the evening time and heading stright towards our vehicle!

Face to face from 3-4 meters. She stopped, and as if asking why are you here?? It was difficult to sustain the eye contact, image shaken as I couldn’t hold my hand firm, most importantly knowing that she is the mother of two cubs

 



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Got it!! Remain of a Sambar deer which she kept it hidden



 Crossing the road. Mission: Get the kill to her cubs. Tiger hates to display their kill and always eats in private, secluded spot. She was moving fast to get away from us. I have heard the cubs growling soon after she inch a bit inside the bamboo shurbs and could see mom training the cub over the kill by not easily giving the remains of the kill to the cubs



A female cub was waiting in the other side, and she was desperate to take the kill before the cub comes out on the road – Tigers are extra sensitive toward their cubs, will never brings them to broad day light unless a situation warranted




Another Day 

Evening time we sighted Kanketi resting on a water stream



Suddently she made her mind to move out



 Acrobatics: Jumping over the reclining tree to move towards the road

 This female was identified as Kanketi who recently in news of tiger cannibalism of killing and eating a portion of Chorbehera female in a territorial fight. She now took over this territory

 Twist: A huge fella appear behind the Jamun tree and started following Kankatis move - our guide screemed..Bamera..Bamera (dominant male). It was peak of mating season and the presence of Bamera presented a rare sight to be unfolded next

 Bamera following Kanketi who've already crossed and reached a shade near a water stream..

 Chasing this drama, with a nasty turn of the vehical I fell down flat on the middle seat...nobody helped :-) somehow got my balane, and what I saw after that was lifes best in the wild. Mating brins in new hope for the next generation after the 3 months gastation. A rare sight and my luck at its best this time....

The present king and the queen of Bandhavgarh and the new celibrity couple in making 

Bamera, he is huge and looks promising for B'garh


Another Day: Afternoon

This was the dominant male (Bamera) of Tala zone resting on a hillock in AC environment

 Twist: suddently emerged a female out of nowhere and she was none other then Kankati. Again, this presented the scope of sighting another mating episode..

Before I could blink my eyes, they went for mating - a pin drop silence and then large growls of Bamera flew all birds around..
 

 Light was tricky and my positin didn't alow a clear picture..still a record shot I guess..


Another Day: Early Morning

Perched and roaring inside a bamboo shurbs. These shurbs are best camouflage habitat for tiger, it also helps them to get to their preys easily hiding behind it..


 

 King appearing from his hideout in the golden light of the dawn, ensuring that I am not his prey to kill , before crossing the road

Crossed the road and disapper through the foliage, it was too hot and need some rest.

Kankati resting below a Jamun tree...flies dont disturb!!






I am sick of you guys, again here!! She'll most likely bring in good news after 3 months. I presume she had to make a kill that night or next becuase during mating period, 3-4 days, pair dont make any kill. This picture was after Bamera left for another zone..my abmitious wish is to bring Kanketi with her cubs from my next visit right in this blog..stay tune.



Tadoba: More then a Tiger Reserve



Indian Gaur

By Safique 



The name Tadoba (TATR- Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve) may sound a bit unfamiliar for many as it didn’t make much news for tourist until recently. This pristine forest in Chandrapur district of Maharastra flourished relatively in peace with  less human abuse and evils then some other forests in India. As a result along with varieties of other animals, birds, Tadoba become a safe heaven for the Big-Cats, the Tiger. With the gradual increase in Tiger Population Park was upgraded as Tiger Reserve in 1995. Per recent census March 2011 Tiger population has further increased from 42 to 69, in an area spread across 625 Sq. km. Needless to say what an accomplishment by park authorities in the midst of tiger crisis everywhere in the world. It was reported that as many as 28 tiger cubs were born in 2010.

   

Rudy Shelduck, Migratory, Nesting at Ladakh



In last couple of years media was active in reporting frequent tiger sighting stories by tourist, hence the place now become a hot-spot for tourist. May be good news for wildlife enthusiasts, particularly Tiger chasers, but definitely irritating for all the wild inhabitants. I got to know from Dieter Gutmann a German turist and Tiger conservationist who was staying next to our room, that recently in Bandhavgarh a safari vehicle hit a Tiger as they were racing to be the first to enter core zone. In turn the Tiger attacked two tourists in that vehicle. In May 2010 a Tigress with three cubs of 5 months old killed by safari vehicle in Bandvhgarh. Here in Tadoba as well, every water whole/stream, key spots are being scrutinized twice a day by thirsty eyes in safari vehicles to have a glimpse of the elusive Tiger.

  

Injured Tigress



We were greatly benefited by the presence of Dieter who gave a presentation to Ruby and I about the world of Tigers and how things changed for Tigers - and for us for that matter just in 110 years (In 1900 there was 100,000 in the world and now has hardly 4000. When it comes to India in the same period number dived 40,000 to now 1700, a massive failure worldwide caused directly or indirectly by humans). The most impending issue worldwide is of the proof that Big-Cats are shunting in buffer zone more often the earlier from the core zone (protected area) of national parks due to deforestation or lack of preys. Problem multiplies as buffer zones are aggressively encroached and this has significantly increased man-animal conflicts. I saw a direct evidence of this in Tadoba as forest authorities kept a caged Tigress, just three years old, near to MTDC resort. She had injured four persons, in retaliation villagers stuck with a sword and cut her nose. She is now undergoing treatment. In the buffer zone villagers enters forests to collect Mahua fruit (to make local liquor) and cuts grass for livestock. In sitting position Tiger mistakes them as their prey. These Mahua’s are also favorite food for wild bears found in Tadoba, and there were many conflicts with bears as well.



Grey Headed Fish Eagle



It was a three days tour to Tadoba, with total three safaris in the morning and evening. Ironically I didn’t sight a Tiger! Not to mean sighting is difficult, infact the probability is high, it was just not my time. But what I saw and sharing herewith may change the perception that visiting Tiger sanctuaries are not merely a success of sighting a Tiger but of really enjoying the rich bio-diversity and other varieties of wild species rather then passing common fuzz if Tiger dont appear. Many also don’t understand, but the wildlife and the forest echos "To know me give your senses a chance". Tadoba is one such Tiger Reserve (primarily), which I felt should equally be visited for its pristine and unique eco-system that has full of herbivores, carnivores and bird life. It was very different among other forests I visited; in the sense it is a dry deciduous jungle with small bamboo shurbs. From the first look itself place was looking like extremely congenial habitat for Tigers, especially to get to their preys hiding through these bamboo shurbs.

  

Spotted deer

 There are three ranges, Tadoba, Mohrali and Kolsa. Mohrali range is mostly visited by tourists, where MTDC has a resort (expect not more then basic/average facility and food with a lousy manager – if your focus is on wildlife more then resort you’ll be OK), there are two more resorts Saras & Tiger Trails (new) – looks better, off-course at double the price of MTDC. Kolsa is inside the jungle, mainly for birds and has a Forest Rest House (need advance booking from forest authorities). Mind you, park remains closed on every Tuesdays, but good news is park is open for the entire year, so no monsoon break. In Mohrali, some of the key spots are Telia & Erai dam, Jamunzora and the place we got in the last day with the highest animal density was called sector 97 in code language by the Guide. It was bit far from the gate, but worth visiting. I was not taken to this place until I insisted as someone spotted Tiger there in the morning.

Temperature may touch 40-42 degree celsius in the peak summer and an open vehicle (best for safari – though other vehicles are also permitted in Tadoba (unique) may drain lots of fluid out of you so need at least two litters of water per head. Another unique aspect, the safari duration is lengthiest in India, four hours each in the morning and evening. This provides ample time to even comfortably follow animal’s calls to trace Tiger or engage on photography with ease.
 

Indian Roller

 



Ruddy Shelduck


Main Mammals:

Tiger (69), leopards (28), wild dogs (1758), wild boars (195), sloth bears (165), bisons/gaur (1052), deer (2039), wild Cat, Ratel, Indian mouse deer, Sambar, Four horned antelope, Flying Squirrel, Hare etc.

Birds:

Different verities of goose, Egret, Heron, Rudy Shelduck (migratory), IBIS, Indian Roller, Verities of Drongo’s, Eagles, Bee Catchers, Junglefoul, Peefoul, Frencolin, Barbet, Sandgrouse and many more

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P.S: All comments, feedback, critical view, openinon welcome.