King of Jungles: Kaziranga, Nameri & Bhalukpong

The great one horne rhino  at Kaziranga - Bagori Range

By: Safique

Just like a migratory species of wild, I also return to Kaziranga during Nov-Dec every year. But this time I thought to package it with Nameri and Bhalukpong. Believe it or not – it turned out to be a thrilling experience, especially venturing Nameri forest on foot, and encountering wild jumbo, rhinos face to face, was a saga worth sharing

Kaziranga flourishing with the wild animals, I was extremely happy to see the conservation work inside the sanctuary, especially the way the habitat is being built and preserved. The growing rhino population (2048 now), is a testimony of these excellent ground work by forest staff. But on the contrary, I definitely hesitate to say the park is well protected from external poaching threats, and I felt situation is rather alarming. To my dismay the month I was there two mysterious death one tiger and a rhino was reported, and the horn of the rhino was missing. While traveling I spotted several illegal migrants recently encroached and put up their huts other side of the road/park near the eastern range (Bura-Pahar area). This remains as the key risk to the park. I read in the news paper that the forest ministry clarifies the other side of the road/park doesn’t come under them. Irony is - tackling risk to wild animal from poaching a de facto role of this ministry. What appears to me is Illegal migrants mushrooming in that area means, the vote bank is also growing at the same proportion, perhaps this is the most influencing factor then protecting animals.

Scenic tree & lots of animals the
other side of the lake - Bagori R

Need to mention that Kaziranga witnessed the horrifying history of carnage. By 1908 rhino population was almost driven to extinction, and left with around 12 individuals only. Over the years many poachers either caught alive or died in encounter were identified to be illegal migrants who are being used as field helper’s, originating from east Bengal/Bangladesh. Poaching risk multiplies with the present context, that more than a rhino habitat, Kaziranga now has world’s highest density of the big-cat (Royal Bengal Tiger), i.e. 32 tigers per 100 sq. km and the protected area is about 430 sq. km. Demand for tiger parts are ever known for which the entire world is struggling to save the big-cat from extinction, but very few knows that an Asiatic rhinoceros horn composed of keratin fiber is believed to have aphrodisiac value (used to cure impotency) and can fetch up to Rs. 1.5 million per kg in the international markets which are smuggled to South Asian countries. With these facts needless to say that this nature’s paradise is most naturally a poacher’s paradise as well.

Kaziranga housed 70% of the rarest one-horned rhinos, when the buzz and funding is at its peak to save tiger now, poachers most likely to turn their barrel towards their best alternative here. And guess what? This is actually happening, poaching has increased in the recent months, 10 rhinos were killed in this year till date. Park securities say it is impossible to guard the entire stretch of the park as poachers are always on the lookout for a fresh kill. Hence it is paramount that conservation not just focuses on building the habitat, and that’s actually been done fairly well, but the visible poaching risk from surrounding areas needs to be tackled wisely. Another disturbing fact, tiger conservation in India started in 1970. As a result tiger population increased from 1200 in 70’s to 3500 in 90’s, but suddenly 2008 census shockingly published that population dropped to 1411, and the primary reason was poaching. If this can be the reality, there is a full scope and potential that the 100 years of rhino conservation that build up the rhino population which is at its peak now, will continue to face the greatest risk to replicate a tiger like story.

Nameri and Bhlukpong:

Nameri is the secluded forest and share the easiest route from Kaziranga through Tezpur district. ). Located on the bank of river Jia-Voroli, Nameri is famous for Mahseer fish, Bison (The ferocious wild buffalo), elephants and Tiger (some even claims it has Black-Panther). This forest is secluded/untapped mainly because of its remote location, and the risk of local extremist. Bhalukpong is 30 kilometer ahead of Nameri (on the Arunachal border – gateway to China) . Here you’ll see nature’s majestic beauty surrounded by lofty mountains and Kameng River flowing out of Himalayas.

Bhalukpung - Kameng River

I thought to explore this hidden treasure and drove down to Bhalukpong first just after few day's of visiting Kaziranga. I was accompanied by Rajkishore (RK) - friend from my college days. RK and I share some good memories, especially bunking classes, and the scooter crash while riding on full throttle on the way to our picnic etc. From those days to these, a lot has changed, that time some of us will enter jungles/tea gardens to hide ourselves after bunking classes :-), and to play in the weekends. But today I venture on it to understand natural habitat. Those days I’ll veture forests with an air-gun with the intention to game/hunt – and I did for a long time, but when I came out of the teenage immaturity I realized that it is indeed important to shoot in nature, but with a camera not with a gun. Now whenever I enter a forest my concience reverbated with these impeccable nostalgia.
We reached Bhalukpong towards the afternoon and check-in to Directorate of Tourism bungalow (ATDC), this is the cheapest and the best one there for budget travelers. It can be bit confusing to find this place because in the same compound first (AP guest house) and last (IORA – Pvt) are different resorts, and this one is in the middle, we actually had to drill first and the last resorts to pint point this ATDC bungalow. After check-in, the staffers whispered that situation is tense since last couple of days, as extremist beefed up their activities. We decided to inform local police about our presence. We’re bit concerned especially because sun was setting and one of RK’s friend hadn't arrived as  yet. He was stuck in a nearby forest range office, and vehicles were not allowed plying without police escort after twilight. We appraise the situation to the local police in charge, and in-fact they picked him up in their escort van and dropped him right at the bungalow. It was already 7pm by then, and staffers again alarmed us about an elephant fury. They suggested us not to roam around outside much as last couple of days one single elephant roaming around in the night, and he often kicks opens the compound main gate to demand food and will not leave until something is given to him. I was quite curious to see this incidence as anyhow we’re staying in the upper floor – but guess what? He didn’t come that night at all.

Bhalukpong

The kitchen was empty as they only prepare depending on guest availability. We had to go to the nearby market and got the famous local river fish Hilghoria. It was tasty and cooked very nicely though. Upper floor has the best view of the river and the jungle. The vibrant sounds of the Kameng River flowing out of hills change its tune frequently as the air-flow changes. Slowly night got gloomier, the mix sounds of air, river, insects, animals, and birds have given me the real feeling of being in a wonderland. Next morning I got up early, packed my gears and moved towards the river through the forests. Morning was bit foggy; track leading to the river was narrow and covered with long grasses – definitely very scary and I was alone. After a while I discovered that I am actually walking on some pug marks. I look at it closely and these were medium size marks, very fresh must be of last night or early morning, because cracks on dust in the circles were clearly visible. It was not a dog or wild dog because no nail marks were visible. The wild cat family doesn’t leave nail marks (in a flat dusty surface) and you’ll not see those extra dots on fingers, unlike dogs. Hence I interpreted that it must be of a leopard or similar from wild cat category, but not a tiger. After about 5 minutes the sound of the river become more prominent, and the moment grass land ended I could see the beauty of fast flowing river over a thick layer of stones. Landscape was amazingly beautiful; I took as much pictures as possible. By the time RK also arrived to the river side, and we decided to go to Tipi, 3 km ahead of Bhalukpong to see the Arunachals famous orchid garden before leaving to Nameri.

At Tipi Orchid Garden

At Tipi Orchid Garden

Our plan for Nameri was to do rafting first in the Jia-Voroli River and then the safari towards the after noon. But we miscalculated the timing, road leading to Tipi was so bad that we end up taking close to two hours time and arrived Nameri in the afternoon. Rafting is conducted from Nameri Eco Camp, run by Angling Association. They told us that rafting takes almost three hours, if we choose this then obviously we can’t go to safari, ultimately we decided in favour of safari, and I was quite disappointed missing the rafting opportunity. Without wasting time further, we contacted forest department to provide us a forest guide. Unlike other wildlife safari’s where one either has to go on a vehicle or on an elephant, safari at Nameri can be done on foot – sounds thrilling and risky? Yes - it was indeed a unique experience walking on woods. Other side of the river Jia-Voroli is the dense Nameri forests. We crossed the river in a small boat, this is the river where famous game fish Mahseer is found and the Angling Association allows protected fishing.

 After crossing the river I saw two forest guards waere carrying an injured barking deer on their shoulder.

Barking Deer - escaped from Tiger



Crossing the river Jia-Voroli

They found the deer deep inside the jungle, and he escaped from the tiger’s clutches with the back bone broken. Foresters now taking him for treatment to the nearby veterinary hospital. They said the deer will be OK after treatment and they’ll release him in the jungle. What a luck and life for this little creature. And what a devotion by these foresters. I couldn’t stop praising them. The guide accompanied us told that many time they seize fish or wild animals killed by poachers, but they’ll never eat them, instead they’ll burn it. I instantly believed him, as I saw the greatness and dedication with which they tried to save the deer, which could potentially be in the dinner table after escaping from Tiger. I witnessed a true love for nature, and these are true protectors of our jungles and should be titled as Forest Guardian rather Forest Guard.

Face to face w/the Jumbo

Immediately after entering the jungle trek I saw a big wild elephant and all my partners rejected to move ahead. Guide said, it must be our domestic elephant - dont worry! but when we were nearing I saw him staring at the elephant, and sensing his doubt I asked what happen? He slowly replied – ours one was actually bit thin! Suddenly I felt a mild tremor inside me hearing this, and the elephant was just 7 -8 meters away. I looked back and by the time my team mates were frantically running away. As I already pointed my camera, I didn’t feel like loosing this once in a life time opportunity come what may. I started clicking; grass was long and thick, and I was not getting the right exposure. The moment I clear these obstacles I saw a little baby (two – three weeks) appeared between her legs and then I felt the added danger. Elephants are normally very peaceful and follow group discipline. They are dangerous when they are alone or with a cub. Before charging elephant will always rise their ears and tail, and they can run @ 40-50 km per hour. I was obviously annoying her with my presence and the camera pointing towards her, and incessantly clicking as I was not able to frame the baby well because of thick grass. She started showing her discontent with a grumpy sound and started pushing the baby inside her leg. Realizing that I should know my limits, I stepped back before she raise her tail, becouse if she does, I’ll not have any chance.

It was a 5-6 km radius of trekking, we kept getting the smell of Bison, but didn’t see one – don’t know fortunate or unfortunate because all the foresters cautioned us that this is the animal who has the dubious distinction of charging human. Tigers stay deep in the jungles and mostly venture outside areas only in the night. Nameri also believed to have Black Panther. By the time we return to the base camp, sun was setting, and a huge flock of migratory birds returning by forming V shape. There were so many that the sky was almost filled with birds on top of our heads.

As it was already dark, forest staff informed us that one groups of elephant has already crossed the river, and we may face them in the village. It was a harvesting season and during this season maximum numbers of man-elephant conflicts takes place. I saw villagers covered their paddy field with open electric wires to flee elephants – though it is completely illegal but it seems they have no viable alternatives. Every paddy-field has a Machang (tree-top hut) but villagers said jumbo getting so used to crackers and other means that they don’t care at all.

We started driving back and RK was in the driving seat. It was a narrow village road and we’re right inside the village. All were talking about the amazing safari experience and was moving slowly, then I saw on the headlight something big is crossing the road, and before I could blink my eyes a massive elephant appeared in the middle of the road. I shouted Hati (elephant) – Stop!... RK said what? He braked instantly, but all inside the car got almost frozen. Our head lite remained on – Jumbo, who was about to cross the road, instead of doing so turned,and slowly coming towards us. I said switch-off the lights, RK switch off the lights and fortunately able to reverse the car, after a while he disappeared in the jungle. We came back and took another route to go to the main road.

Overall it was a journey 'Filled with Thrill' till the last moment. I discovered an amazing adventure zone that one can easily choose to go by clubbing these three places. If one has a week time then Bomdila & Twang can be added as an extension. Twang is bordering China, 180km from Bhalukpong (Arunachal Pradesh entry gate), is at a height of about 12000 ft. To go to Tawang you’ll need an interline permit, but for Bhalukpung not. Road connecting these place is quite bizarre now, but construction is going on which is likely to be completed by mid of 2011.

Route:
Guwahati --> 217 km, Kaziranga --> 140km, Nameri Eco Camp --> 30km, Bhalukpong --> 100km, Bomdila --> 40km, Dirang--->145km, Tawang

http://picasaweb.google.com/isafique/NameriNationalParkAssam?authkey=Gv1sRgCLus0_3p18_LzAE&feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/isafique/KazirangaNationalPark?authkey=Gv1sRgCIXKoMWSpo_9Ig&feat=directlink